An Eastern Chequerboard by Sir Harry Luke, Lovat Dickson Limited Publishers, 1934.
“This Cyprus set in the sea is indeed a sweet land”
Sir Harry Luke (1884-1954) was a British colonial administrator who played a significant role in Cyprus's administrative landscape. Beyond his official duties, he was a keen writer and observer, with a particular talent for capturing the human stories behind political structures. He served as private secretary to the High Commissioner of Cyprus from 1911 to 1912 and later as Governor of Famagusta from 1918 to 1920. His time in Cyprus was marked by a more empathetic approach compared to many of his colonial contemporaries, showing genuine interest in the island's complex social fabric.
Through his role as a British colonial administrator, Luke gained a unique, firsthand understanding of Cyprus that goes beyond typical travel writing. His time on the island gave him the opportunity to explore its diverse landscapes and rich cultures. “An Eastern Chequerboard” stands as his most personal exploration on Cyprus’s natural beauty.
What makes Luke’s perspective unique is his deep engagement with the island’s geography. Luke’s narrative transforms the island into a chessboard of intricate terrains - rugged mountains, sprawling plains, ancient ruins, and picturesque coastal towns - each square a piece of its rich geographical and historical mosaic. The "chequerboard" metaphor comes to life as Luke explores how different landscapes interact, complement and contrast with one another, from the fertile plains of Mesaoria to the dramatic heights of the Troodos mountains. He brings a rare combination of official insight and personal curiosity, offering readers a nuanced view of an island where geography itself plays a key role in shaping its identity. From the bustling streets of Nicosia to the quiet charm of rural villages, “This is Khalevga, beloved of the chosen few who know it as a place of pure delight, an enchanted nook well worthy of the "Enchanted Island"”. Luke’s keen eye for detail highlights the interplay between Cyprus’s dramatic scenery and its storied past, revealing how the island's geography shapes both its identity and its transformation.
Luke also authored several other historical works on Cyprus, including “The Fringe of the East: Journey Through Past and Present Provinces of Turkey (Macmillan & Co, 1913)”, “The Handbook of Cyprus (London, 1920)”, “Cyprus: A Portrait and an Appreciation (Harrap, 1957)” and “Cypriote Shrines (Faith Press, 1920)”. These works, alongside his travel writings and administrative reports, offer insights into the political and social landscape of the region during a time of significant change, providing important historical context to complement his personal reflections.
However, readers must approach this text with historical sensitivity. Luke’s remarks, while valuable, are inevitably shaped by the colonial mindset of his time. This lens both illuminates and distorts the complex realities of Cyprus, offering insights that are as much reflective of his own era as of the island itself.
In closing, “An Eastern Chequerboard” offers more than just historical insight - it captures the essence of a time and place in transition. Luke’s ability to intertwine geography with history creates a unique portrait of Cyprus, where each landscape tells a story. “[…] the romantic peninsula of Akámas. In this delicious forest-tract, this olive-hoary cape in ocean, now inhabited only by game-birds, Aphrodite wedded Acamas”. His work stands as both a testament to the island’s enduring beauty and a reminder of the complexities of colonial perspectives.
You can find this book, and many more, in the Research Centre of the CVAR.
“And so let us close this little pilgrimage, riding along the fertile coastland into Paphos with the note of the conch-shell blown by the Paphian camel-drivers ringing in our ears and the fragrance of the wild herbs, marjoram and balsam, basil and rosemary, perfuming the air around us.”
The 'Book Of The Month' series is made possible with the support of OPAP (Cyprus).
